Holidays

Food plays a major role in Chinese holidays. For many Chinese, the ap- pearance of a food is symbolic. Chinese like to eat noodles on birthdays and on the New Year (p894) because their long thin shape symbolises longevity. That's why it's bad luck to break the noodles before cook- ing them. During the Chinese New Year, it's common to serve a whole chicken because it resembles family unity. Clams and spring rolls are also served during New Year festivities because their shapes represent wealth: clams resemble bullion and spring rolls are shaped like bars of gold.

Fish also plays an important role during New Year celebrations. The word for fish, ??, sounds similar to the word for abundance. It's custom to serve a fish at the end of the evening meal, symbolising a wish for prosperity in the coming year.

Certain holiday foods stem from legends. For example, the tradition of eating moon cakes (??e bing), a sweet cake filled with sesame seeds, lotus seeds, dates and other fillings during China's Mid-Autumn Festival (p894),is based on a story from the 14th century. Supposedly, when China  was battling the Mongol invasions, a certain general had a plan to take back Mongol-held territory. He dressed up as a Taoist priest, entered the city and distributed moon cakes to the populace.

Hidden within the cakes were notes instructing the people to revolt and overthrow the Mongols to retake their city. The people did as instructed and threw the Mongols out.

Zongzi (dumplings   made of glutinous  rice wrapped in  bamboo or reed leaves) are eaten during the Dragon Boat festival (p894) and  have a very long history in China. According to legend, such dumplings were thrown into the river as fish food to keep them from eating  the body of Qu Yuan, a poet who committed suicide during the Warring States period (475-221 ??). Now the dumplings are eaten throughout China as well as Southeast Asia.

Banquets

The banquet is the apex of the Chinese dining experience. Virtually all significant business deals in China are clinched at the banquet table.

Dishes are served in sequence, beginning with cold appetisers and continuing through 10 or more courses. Soup, usually a thin broth to aid digestion, is generally served after the main course.

The idea is to serve or order far more than everyone can eat. Empty bowls imply a stingy host. Rice is considered a cheap filler and rarely ap- pears at a banquet - don't ask for it, as this would imply that the snacks and main courses are insufficient, causing embarrassment to the host.

It's best to wait for some signal from the host before digging in. You will most likely be invited to take the first taste. Often your host will serve it to you, placing a piece of meat, chicken or fish in your bowl. If a whole fish is served, you might be offered the head, the cheeks of which are considered to be the tastiest part. Try to take at least a taste of what is given to you.

Never drink alone. Imbibing is conducted via toasts, which will usually commence with a general toast by the host, followed by the main guest reply toast, and then settle down to frequent toasts to individuals. A toastis conducted  by raising your glass in both hands in the direction of the toastee and crying out ganbei, literally 'dry the glass'. Chinese do not clink glasses. Drain your glass in one hit. It is not unusual for everyone to end up very drunk, though at very formal banquets this is   frowned upon.

Don't be late for a formal banquet; it's considered extremely rude. The banquet ends when the food and toasts end - the Chinese don't linger after the meal. You may find yourself being applauded when you enter a large banquet. It is polite to applaud back.