From within the cement sea of a Chinese city, you may begin to wonder if the urban sprawl has swallowed up all that nature had to offer. Fear not. As long as you're willing to share with other visitors drawn to the great outdoors, there are still some natural wonders to behold.

Spelunkers will be awed by Guizhou's Zhijin Cave (p634), one of the world's largest un- derground labyrinths. Geologists will be perplexed by Guangxi's bizarre karst landscape at Guilin (p606). Hikers after a challenge with views will find it at the holy Emei Shan (p725), and photographers (and everyone else) will be gobsmacked by the gorgeous alpine scenery of Jiuzhaigou (p752). From deserts to lush subtropical forests, from the elusive panda to marauding monkeys, China still has a touch of the exotic for nature lovers.

Nevertheless, China is also faced with serious environmental problems. Be prepared to encounter heavy pollution, piles of litter and dirty waterways.