Jiuzhaigou in Sichuan Province is one of the natural wonders of China with its
lakes, waterfalls, ponds, streams, springs, rivers and rapids combining to create a watery
dreamland.
As a Shanghainese who
has made lots of visits during holidays to the Chinese classical gardens in nearby cities
like Suzhou and Hangzhou, I finally made up my mind to venture somewhere different, to a
place distinct from the hustle and bustle of the metropolitan life.
Fortunately, the vast
motherland has many, many locations where one can view the beauty of Nature. And so, at
the end of June, there I was in Sichuan Province in Southwest China.
Sichuan has always taken pride in its reputation of a land of abundance and has a
whole host of natural wonders completely different from Shanghai. The journey seemed to
enhance my expectations from the very beginning.
Following a quick look around Chengdu, the provincial capital, I couldn't wait to make
a bee-line for my long-desired dreamland destination - Jiuzhaigou, also known as the
Valley of Nine Villages.
But first there was a
real test of my endurance and patience - a nine-hour bus ride from Chengdu.
Apparently, viewing
the spectacular scenery was doomed to be hard-earned.
The narrow and rugged
mountain paths have endowed Sichuan with poetic lines from ancient times.
That's because
traveling around the province is harder than scaling the sky.
No wonder it is said
that Sichuan driving license holders are famous for their motoring skills, especially for
getting around precipitous paths on mountainsides on rainy nights which happen a lot.
I felt much at ease on a bus with a driver who boasted nearly 30 years driving
experience in such circumstances.
Still, the long
odyssey before I reached Jiuzhaigou proved to be to my benefit because it made my first
sight of the valley absolutely worthwhile.
Jiuzhaigou is about
430 kilometers from Chengdu and lies within the boundary of Jiuzhuigou County of the Aba Autonomous
Prefecture.
Tibetan and Qiang
ethnic minority groups constitute the majority of the population. There are nine Tibetan
villages scattered throughout the valley, hence its name, although in fact we could only
gain access to three of them.
What makes Jiuzhaigou
special are its water - rivers, lakes, springs, streams, ponds, waterfalls and rapids. As
the popular saying goes: "You won't enjoy seeing any other mountain once you've seen Yellow
Mountain and neither will you favor any other waterscape when you're back from
Jiuzhaigou."
Reputedly, the locals yearned to see the sea so they named their home region's
waterscape haizi which means "son of the sea." I indulged myself in my thoughts
so that they would find nourishment in this tranquil and remote place far from urban
uproar.
Visitors can go to
Jiuzhaigou National Park to explore the picturesque valley that is proud to be listed as a
UNESCO Natural Heritage Site and which is also a shooting location favored by movie
directors. The well-developed hardware facilities inside the park live up to its
world-class fame. The three valleys winding around form a "Y" shape and contain
many scenic spots.
The
environmentally-friendly sightseeing bus takes you to the highest point of Jiuzhaigou and
the Long Lake at an altitude of more than 3,000 meters where you can sense brisk and cool
breezes all around you. The Long Lake is an unparalleled fantasy of sapphire blue with
snow-capped mountains in the distance.
Standing by the lake and gazing at the prospect of the mountains, I felt as if I could
penetrate through the view in front of my eyes and see afar.
Next, I walked to the Jade
Lake, going from the largest lake to the smallest. The corals, reefs and all the the
creatures in the lake integrate with the light from different angles and change color from
sandy beige to dark puce, from light green to navy blue, every change triggered as if by
magic.
Jiuzhaigou not only
lulls you with its serene embrace but also awakens you with its fierce tension.
You realize the truth
of this when you are under the Pearl Lake Waterfalls, stunned and soaked through. The
torrential current of the fall drops majestically and thunderously, just like thousands
upon thousands of pearls rolling down from heaven.
The well-known TV serial "Journey to the West," adapted from the classic
novel of the same name, had several episodes set there. A few kilometers away is the
Nuorilang Waterfall, the fall with widest span in Jiuzhaigou, and one which offers an
inspiring spectacle. You can marvel at the splendor of the fall during the rainy season
from June on, and lasting about three months.
I had expected to be
shocked by the Mirror Lake but as luck would have it, it began drizzling when I reached
the lake and the calm mirror face was disturbed. It reminded of the fickle weather of
Jiuzhaigou, which may change in a second. You are likely to experience a shower under
sunshine or step across two seasons within a single day because of the over 1,000-meter
drop in altitude.
The unique color of
the Jiuzhaigou water impressed me, almost transparent pure blue or somewhat greenish
black. Its clarity can even give visibility of more than 20 meters deep in some places.
The crystal-limpid waters enchant every visitor with the peerless fidelity of their
reflections which left me speechless.
You can choose either
to roam in the valley between spots or take a ride on a sightseeing bus that calls at
every spot and saves you walking. However, convenience brought regret when I saw the heavy
smoke from the engine exhaust staining the previously pollution-free mountain air.
When you come to visit
Jiuzhaigou, you must not miss Huanglong Valley, or Yellow Dragon Valley, about 140
kilometers from Jiuzhaigou, also famous for its cluster of ponds. Huanglong Valley sits on
an altitude much higher than Jiuzhaigou, which means different scenic wonders as well as a
more tiring and arduous journey.
Huanglong Valley is said to be the bathing place of the
Fairy Mother Goddess in Chinese myth, adding some mystery to its atmosphere.
Huanglong's best
scenic spot is located at the top of the valley and this was my ultimate goal-the famed,
Multi-Colored Lake at an altitude of more than 4,000 meters.
Undoubtedly, for an
urbanite lacking physical exercise, the ordeal on both my constitution and mental power
stretched me to the limit. But you will never know the heartfelt joy awaiting you until
you climb up to the top. At that point, I was closer to the beautiful lake, closer to the
snow-capped mountains, closer to the fabulous blue sky.
The multi-colored lake
refracts light into many colors. And a bright tinge of blue pervades the place. But for
the crowds of visitors, I would have thought I truly was in a fairyland.
I started to miss the
fairy-like waterscape of Jiuzhaigou even before I left Sichuan. I will surely pay a second
visit, probably in autumn when the colors are stronger and changing.
(Shanghai Star
July 16, 2007)
